Connect the light assembly side of the orange wire to the other conductor in the wire that you ran from the front.ġ. Tape/cap off the harness side of the orange wire.ħ. On the rear light assembly, cut the orange wire.Ħ. Connect the harness side of the brown wire to one of the conductors in the wire that you ran from the front to the back.ĥ. Tape or cap off the connector end of the brown wire.Ĥ. Cut the brown wire in pin 5 (between the orange and sky blue wires). Find the junction connector J28 behind the left rear panel (it's a 12 pin connector).Ģ. (If doing this on a 5 door, remove the lower B pillar cover and the rear door skid trim piece).ġ. Pop the door skid trim piece on the driver's side.ģ. Run the 2 conductor wire from the front to the rearġ. You will have to fool the body ECU into believing that the hatch courtesy switch is the same as one of the front door courtesy switches and you will have to connect the light's ground wire to the door switched ground that makes the dome light come on when the doors open. You would have to split the rear door courtesy switch from the light and then run a 2 conductor wire from the connector by the light to the under dash fuse panel.
The current mileage was 13,380 and failure mileage was 459.It's doable, but not trivial. The vehicle has to go back to the dealer because the seal has loosened. The dealer stated that the seal was leaking and it was replaced and apoxied. On December 26, 2007, the hatch area was leaking and created puddles of water in the rear of the vehicle. The dealer cleared the electronic codes again and damaged the interior of the vehicle. On November 6, 2007, the stable track was not driving properly and the driver's seat made a crunching noise whenever it was moved. Finally, the entire hatch was replaced and there had been no further occurrences. The dealer stated that there was wiring failure and replaced the wiring however, the failure continued. First, the computer codes were reset, but this did not correct the failure. This caused the emergency lights to illuminate, the door ajar alarm to sound, and disabled all of the buttons on the remote and instrument panel. Within the first week of purchasing the vehicle, the rear hatch light began illuminating. this is definitely a manufacturing defect that again gm is ignoring until someone is injured and they are sued. If this glass blows out or falls off while driving in traffic, someone could be seriously injured not only from the weight of the glass but from flying glass and debris. Upon checking on line apparently hundreds of people have had the same problem. Gm states that this problem is not a defect and is not covered under any warranty. I have probably opened the rear glass on the 2003 Yukon no more than a dozen times in the years that I have had it I usually open the entire hatch. I have a 1996 tahoe I use for hauling and odd jobs. It is a second vehicle and stays garaged most of the time. My vehicle is a 2003 model with 55,000 miles. I had to pull the glass down by hand and align it while trying to shut the glass. After looking at it closely I could see that the glass was separated from the right hinge. I couldn't tell where it came from at first, but when I tried to shut the rear glass, the right side of the glass just popped up.
After raising the rear hatch glass, I heard a popping noise. Several days ago I was going to put some items in the back end.